I recently wrote about a trip we made around Wales in a motorhome for familytraveller.com. It was wet and windy, but we weren’t in lockdown – so it was a treat, wherever the weather!
Here’s the article, below and a link to the feature is also here
A MEANDER THROUGH WALES IN A MOTORHOME
We were travelling through a windy, waterlogged Wales on a motorhome holiday. Through a rain-spattered windscreen, we peered out onto a landscape battered, drenched and squelched by storm Dennis. And of course, we all had a whinge about the terrible weather.
But that was back in February 2020, before COVID-19 had turned our lives upside down. And, in retrospect, a bit of rain and wind was nothing to bellyache about. The open road was ahead of us. We had the freedom to roam. We weren’t stuck in the house under lockdown, after all!
If coronavirus has taught keen travellers anything, it’s the fact that we should be grateful for any and every trip we’re lucky enough to take. No matter what the good old British weather throws at us.
And, if I’m honest, the dramatic winds and sheets of driving rain that whipped us on our motorhome adventure didn’t really dampen our spirits too much. There’s something very exciting (especially with children in tow) about heading off in your own mobile hotel, bedding down for the night in countryside campsites with the sounds of nature (including howling winds) all around you as you hunker down in your haven. And if you’re former campers (as we are as a family) then a motorhome is pure luxury. Dry, warm and well insulated from anything a storm can hurl at you.
We hired a luxury motorhome in Cardiff – our particular model was a Bailey’s Approach Autograph II 79-6, with three double beds, large kitchen, shower room, six fully belted seats, a TV/DVD and air conditioning. You’ll need a C1 on your licence to drive it (if you passed your test before 1997, you automatically qualify) but do be warned that you need to be a confident driver to handle – and park up – such a large vehicle. Of course there are plenty of smaller models to hire that might suit you just as well.
From Cardiff, we headed north to Hay-on-Wye, lying just on the Welsh side of the Wales/England border. A small town famous for its many bookshops (around 30 in total), it’s a heaven for little bookworms – with some of its bookshops dedicated to children’s and illustrated books. The town is surrounded by the Brecon Beacons and Black Mountains, so as well as being great book-browsing territory, it’s a hill-walkers paradise too.
Stop off for a coffee and a vegetarian lunch at The Old Electric Shop, also home to a concept store of vintage and artisan homewares.
Next, we headed northwest to mid-Wales, breaking our journey near Rhayader to see the wonderful sight of hundreds of Red Kites feeding at Gigrin Farm (check times at www.gigrin.co.uk) and to snap up a fantastic photo opportunity.
Then it was on to the Elan Valley to see its six famous dams and reservoirs. Feats of civil engineering, cascading their frothy waterfalls in an area of outstanding scenic beauty, the dams were built 100 years ago to supply water to Birmingham. Get splashed by the waters tumbling at a rate of knots, walk around the area’s many nature reserves and stop off at the visitor centre and café.
Heading west, we took an idyllic drive through the countryside to the west coast and the Victorian seaside town of Aberystwyth to stay the night. Scour the independent shops, take a walk on the mile-long prom to watch a stunning sunset, then enjoy fish and chips at The Glengower seafront pub.
Next morning, we headed north to the seaside town of Barmouth, ‘where the mountains meet the sea’ in southern Snowdonia, then on to Dolgellau (enjoy a family meal at the Cross Foxes Inn) and on to Harlech and its spectacular castle. Designated a World Heritage Site, this 13th century castle is surrounded by the dramatic peaks of Snowdonia. After a walk on the sandy beach below, we hiked back up one of the world’s steepest streets and explored a few quirky shops before enjoying a snack in the castle’s visitor centre, boasting brilliant views.
And there were more amazing vistas to follow as we headed on to drive the glorious Llanberis pass in Snowdonia. Surrounded on all sides by towering mountain tops swathed in grey mist, with rivers of rainfall snaking, fizzing and hurling their way down the mountainsides, we negotiated the steep and sometimes narrow mountain roads. Take your time – and enjoy the scenery.
Parking up in Llanberis, we took a short mountain walk, then headed down to the Rumdoodles coffee shop to warm up and browse their outdoor gear offerings (for serious hikers).
Heading ever northwards, our final night was spent on the island of Anglesey at Pencraig campsite, a few miles from Holyhead. On a smallholding surrounded by fields in the very north of North Wales, it was a peaceful spot to sit under the stars with plenty of room for children to race around.
In warmer weather, it’s ideal to spend time on the island’s sandy beaches – including Treaddur Bay, a few miles away – and Benllech Beach on the east coast, a vast expanse of sand with safe bathing. We headed for a visit to the seaside town of Beaumaris, home to an impressive Edwardian castle, a traditional small pier, a perfect spot for crabbing, and streets filled with pastel painted picturesque cottages, shops and tearooms.
A campervan holiday in Wales:
The lowdown:
For suggested camper van routes and itineraries through Wales go to visitwales.com
For campervan hire visit prontomotorhomes.co.uk
Pencraig campsite, Valley, Anglesey can be booked via pitchup.com